Wine Spectator Refuses To Compromise Blind-Tasting Standard For Bordeaux First-Growths
July 12, 2024Reviews of recent releases from the first-growth châteaus of Bordeaux—Lafite Rothschild, Margaux, Haut-Brion, Latour and Mouton-Rothschild—have been conspicuously absent from the pages of Wine Spectator. In a free-ranging discussion between legendary Bordeaux and Napa winemaker Christian Moueix and Wine Spectator editor and publisher Marvin R. Shanken, the reasons are laid clear.
During a recent lengthy interview by Shanken for the Nov. 15 issue, Moueix brings up the state of Bordeaux and makes an appeal for continued support for the region from Wine Spectator. But Moueix is also well aware that since 2020 the first-growth châteaus, traditionally regarded as among the best of Bordeaux, have declined to submit their wines to the publication for blind tasting, a standard the magazine holds all wines to in order to avoid bias.
Shanken sums up the impasse: “They used to send us their wines, but now they want us to go to the château to taste their wines, and we tell them we can’t do that because we wouldn’t be tasting blind.”
After reiterating that Bordeaux is important to Wine Spectator readers, Shanken opens the door for reconciliation, saying that “Wine Spectator would love to taste the first-growths of Bordeaux.” However, the magazine’s position is clear and unchanged: “After over 40 years, we’re not going to start to taste wines non-blind. It’s just not going to happen.” Wine Spectator has more.
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