Aperol Leads A Wave Of Growth For Bitter Liqueurs

Amaro liqueurs from Italy and beyond are gaining adherents in the U.S. as consumers become more accustomed to bitter taste profiles. “There’s a bit of a renaissance in embracing bold flavors like those found in herbal and bitter spirits and liqueurs,” says David Ballew, president and CEO of Oregon-based Hood River Distillers. “This trend mirrors a broader cultural shift toward more complex and robust taste experiences across the culinary and beverage scene over the last few decades.”

Campari—along with its signature Negroni cocktail—has seen strong and steady growth in the U.S. market since 2010 when it sold just 50,000 9-liter cases, a number that has more than quadrupled since to 243,000 cases last year, according to Impact Databank. But portfoliomate Aperol’s growth has been even more explosive, especially over the last five years as the Aperol Spritz came to prominence amid the shift in U.S. drinking habits toward lower-abv cocktails. Last year the brand jumped 40% to 547,000 cases—compared to just 9,000 cases sold in 2010.

“Italian bitter liqueurs and amari do very well for us due to our educated customer base, who won’t hesitate to buy the category leaders but continue to look for other unique bottles in our evolving selection,” says Melissa Surdyk, CEO and co-owner of Minneapolis retailer Surdyk’s. “We also draw in a lot of craft cocktail bartenders who have always been champions of the category.” Campari ($30 a 750-ml.) is the best-selling bitter liqueur at the store, followed by Aperol ($25), Averna amaro ($33), Fernet-Branca ($35), and Bordiga Dilei amaro ($40).

Aperol leads the pack at Twin Liquors in Texas. “Aperol hooked everyone,” says Sandra Spalding, the chain’s director of marketing. “The idea that fruitiness can be balanced by bitter was a revelation. It’s now become commonplace. These liqueurs draw predominantly Gen X and Millennial consumers who are entertaining and making cocktails at home. For the last five-plus years we’ve featured an Aperol Spritz cocktail combo pack and it’s our No.-1 combo pack by far each season.” The combo pack includes a 750-ml. of Aperol plus a 750-ml. of Natale Verga Prosecco for $30.

Luxardo, best known for its maraschino liqueur, has also produced its Bitter Bianco liqueur ($31 a 750-ml.) since the early 1900s. More recently it introduced two additional bitter expressions, Aperitivo ($22) and Bitter Rosso ($32) in 2013 and 2016, respectively. “Luxardo has a long history of producing bitter liqueurs and with the rise in Italian cocktails and cocktail culture, we’ve seen strong growth in all of our bitter liqueurs, but especially Bitter Bianco, which is our top bitter expression, growing 38% in 2023,” says Clayton Danielsen, brand manager for Luxardo at Hotaling & Co.

Martini & Rossi, part of the Bacardi portfolio, has historically been known for vermouth, but also offers bitter liqueurs like Riserva Speciale ($28 a 750-ml.) and Fiero ($21), the latter competing with Aperol. “Our brand’s bitter liqueurs are our primary growth driver of the company,” notes Fabio Raffaelli, North American brand ambassador. “Since launching the Fiero aperitivo in 2019, we’ve been able to provide a new kind of aperitif that aligns with consumer trends.”

Friuli, Italy’s Nonino, part of the Terlato portfolio in the U.S., has looked to tap the ultra-premium segment with its luxury offering Amaro Nonino Riserva Quintessenia. The upscale bottling ages for 24 months in oak barriques and small casks and retails at $108 a bottle.

And last year, Hood River Distillers’ Clear Creek Distillery team worked with renowned mixologist Dale DeGroff and absinthe expert Ted Breaux to launch DeGroff Bitter aperitivo ($30 a 700-ml.) and DeGroff New World amaro ($40). “Undoubtedly, the competition in this category is formidable,” acknowledges Ballew. But he adds, “Our emphasis on authenticity and natural ingredients and colors sets us apart, and we believe it carves out a distinct niche within the competitive landscape.”—Sally Kral

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