Randy Ullom first joined Jackson Family Wines in 1993, and for much of his career there, he has been the head winemaker for Kendall-Jackson wines, making the most popular Chardonnay sold in America: the Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve.

The Kendall-Jackson brand has U.S. volume of 3 million cases and retail value of $500 million annually, according to Impact Databank, placing it fourth in both volume and value terms among all table wines above $10 a bottle in the U.S. market.

Now, after decades at the helm, the most famous mustache in wine is stepping back. Taking the helm for Ullom will be Kris Kato, who has worked as winemaker at the Kendall-Jackson winery in Monterey County since 2014, where he oversaw the Central Coast piece of winemaking for the brand. Both winemakers sat down in Wine Spectator’s Napa office recently to discuss the transition with senior editor MaryAnn Worobiec.